There are a few common sights that you see when you are in Istanbul. Great mosques and the Grand Bazaar. Taksim, bridges, and there is no shortage of historical buildings. Galata and hammam. You eat kebab, and—if you’re smart—an extraordinary amount of baklava. The city’s contemporary art scene, however, tends to be overlooked, even though Istanbul now has an impressive museum in addition to a slew of great galleries and other random art gatherings spread across the city.
I’ve spent a lot of time in Istanbul over the past decade, but each time I went, the reopening of Istanbul Modern—closed for renovations and relocation in 2018—was delayed again. The museum officially opened in its new waterfront building in Karaköy district in 2023; I finally saw it in 2025. At the time, its reputation was somewhat tarnished (more on that below), but its extensive collection provided an excellent introduction to some of Turkey’s most important artists with a large permanent collection and several major temporary exhibitions each year. If you’re not familiar with Turkish art, there are a few works worth checking out.
Fahrelnissa Zeid My Hell emerging explosion of geometric abstraction. A Muslim princess who was one of the first women to attend art school in Istanbul, Zeid was an important avant-gardist in the 1940s, and she would show this painting in 1954 at the Institute of Contemporary Art in London in what was its first solo exhibition by a woman.
Photo by Azade Köker A Place of Peace equally impressive in scale. From a distance, his 18-foot-wide canvas depicts a peaceful forest, but upon closer inspection, you realize that the forest is made of a human skull—the artist’s meditation on a world without us. Many will recognize the inspiration of the great neo-expressionist Bedri Beykam Gérôme, This is my bath. Ingres’ two replacements Turkish Bath and Gérôme’s The Grand Bath in Bursaoffers a compelling critique of Orientalism. Smaller in size but no less important is Cihat Burak Death of a Poeta triptych portrait of Nazim Hikmet, a mid-century left-wing poet who was imprisoned for his politics and forced to flee before dying in exile.
I find the inclusion of the latter work somewhat surprising given the alleged politically motivated censorship directed at Istanbul Modern in recent years. Turkey has grown increasingly democratic during two decades of President Erdogan’s rule, with an ever-tightening noose around the arts, media and political opposition. One could see how that kind of thing would have an impact on a museum collection; respect for a leftist martyr is not what you expect to see here.
But there is. And while wandering around the city’s small art galleries, you’ll come across a lot of art that could be interpreted as subversive. The Taksim Square area is best known for shopping and dining, but it is also full of art galleries. Meşher is one of the largest galleries, offering an ever-changing variety of multimedia exhibits. An extended parallel is Salt Beyoğlu, which in addition to art exhibitions, has a cinema, a bookstore and a winter garden. Also down the road is Galeri Nev Istanbul, a one-room gallery that offers small but fascinating pieces.
North of Taksim in the more populated district of Dolapdere is the Arter, which was the city’s largest art museum until the reopening of Istanbul Modern, and is an important stop for anyone looking for the latest Turkish art. There is still a little left for Dirimart, emphasizing the emerging talent. On the Asian side of the city near the popular Moda area is the Gazhane Museum, which is my favorite art gallery in Istanbul. Once a rusting petrol station, the site has been repurposed as a community center boasting a gallery, cafes, library and other creative spaces, all set amongst a forest of restored industrial buildings.
To get the most out of any or all of these, you have to think carefully about where you’re going to live. Istanbul is huge, and if you end up in the wrong place, you’ll spend your entire visit grinding through traffic from the back of a taxi. Many make the mistake of staying too close to Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. That’s fine if that’s all you want to see, but if you’re trying to see the art opportunities mentioned above, you’ll spend a lot of time on the road.
For easy access to both the Taksim and Istanbul Modern galleries, book a room at the Ritz-Carlton, which offers a refined experience and beautiful views. Two nearby options are Park Hyatt Macka Palas and St. Regis, which are close to Taksim while taking a step towards Arter and Dirimart. Both are architectural marvels, and both offer luxurious accommodations. If you try to divide your time between Istanbul Modern, galleries and Moda, Conrad Bosphorus is located near the bridge between the two sides of the city, and offers a glorious panorama of the city and the sea.
Finally, I would like to convey an alternative to the Grand Bazaar, whose prices have exploded over the past decade while the quality of goods has declined. It’s worth seeing, but after you’re done with its crowds, head to the Fatih Sultan Bazaar on the west side of the Fatih Mosque. Here you will find handicrafts, textiles, soap, incense, food and much more. It’s a market that caters to locals rather than tourists, and unlike more popular markets, it still maintains an authentic artistic atmosphere.
Some Guides to Creative Travel
